Via Community News Service, a University of Vermont journalism internship
Among the winding hills of Randolph, Ayers Brook Goat Dairy is home to some 700 caprine residents. A little over 20 miles away, the goats’ milk is creamed into an increasingly popular treat in the U.S.: velvety caramel.
The farm’s herd produces about 330 gallons of milk a day, some of which gets sent to Fat Toad Farm in Barre to make the latter’s array of caramel sauces.
“The goats are a lot like dogs; they love humans and are super playful,” said Daryll Hooper, the owner of Ayers Brook. The farm uses Saanen goats, a Swiss breed, due to their high milk-production rates.
Fat Toad Farm, a brand of Butterfly Bakery, whips up the caramel following a recipe from Mexico, where varieties of goat’s milk caramel sauce — broadly called cajeta — are a favored delight that’s similar to dulce de leche.
The folks there mix their caramel in traditional copper kettles, consistently stirring over the course of several hours.
“We just stir in milk, sugar, cream of tartar, baking sodas and whatever flavorings we might need. And then in just 5½ hours, we have a rich caramel,” said Claire Georges, owner of Fat Toad Farm and Butterfly Bakery.
Fat Toad Farm was sold to Butterfly Bakery in 2022, with caramel-making operations moving from the farm’s original home of Brookfield north to Barre. That’s where Butterfly Bakery produces other goods like salsas, hot sauces and mustards.
“The name Fat Toad Farm comes from the idea that if you have a healthy farm, you’ll have some fat toads around,” Georges said.
Founded by Steve Reid, Judith Irving and Calley Hastings, Fat Toad originally had its own herd of goats and operated as a dairy. In 2016 the trio sold the animals to Ayers Brook and focused on their caramel traditions.
Ayers Brook was established in 2012 by Vermont Creamery as a way to expand the state’s goat dairy industry. The Hooper family bought it in 2017.
Daryll Hooper and her husband Miles — son of the Vermont Creamery cofounder Allison Hooper — took over operations, according to the White River Valley Herald. The farm continues to provide goat’s milk to Vermont Creamery.
“It’s better to have fewer staff members since the goats are really routine oriented and need consistency in their schedule,” Daryll said.