Via Community News Service, a University of Vermont journalism internship
BURLINGTON — The Burlington farmers market season never truly stops. The winter market kicked off on Nov. 8 and will continue every other Saturday through April 18, giving the community the chance to shop local Vermont produce, crafts and prepared foods even during the coldest months.
Every other week, roughly 40 vendors set up inside the Burlington Beer Company at 180 Flynn Avenue from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. The indoor space offers a warm and welcoming environment where shoppers can stay out of the snow and buy a range of products – fresh carrots, potatoes and pork for a roast or macarons and other sweets to nibble on while they roam the market in the city’s South End.
The winter market plays a key role in maintaining food access during a time when many outdoor farm stands are closed. By creating a consistent space for local producers and consumers to connect, the market also helps keep farms in business year-round.
The Burlington winter market has been a staple of the community for years, but continues to evolve over time. In its second year at the indoor Burlington Beer Company location, market manager Justina Soltys says weekly attendance has grown significantly.
“Before the holidays, we had roughly 1,200 [people] show up. Now, we’re averaging somewhere around 600. Compared to last year, we had an average of about 400,” Soltys said.
The winter market is important for a couple reasons, according to Soltys. “One for community – for people to have a gathering space where they can hang out and eat, socialize and talk to their vendors,” she said. “Also to support the local food system and being able to support vendors and give them a consistent flow of revenue.”
Leafy greens, such as spinach and kale, along with root vegetables like carrots and turnips, dominate the market’s stands this time of year.
For shoppers like Kerry Ellis and her friends, continuing to support local businesses in the winter months is important.
“We like to lounge and stroll,” Ellis said. “And a lot of the local businesses do really cool, niche things with their stuff in the winter – just things you wouldn’t think to do.” One of the products they purchased was miso soup balls from Umamiso that can be dropped into hot water for a quick, flavorful bowl of soup.
Beyond shopping, the market serves as a social hub. Families and friends gather around tables in the historic brick building sipping carefully crafted coffees and sampling steaming potstickers as well as other locally prepared food.
According to the Vermont Agency of Agriculture Food and Markets, there are approximately 60 summer farmers markets and 15 winter markets operating statewide. Vermont’s agriculture economy is significant, generating over $1 billion in annual farm product sales, with dairy dominating the sector, according to the most recent USDA Census of Agriculture.
Farmers markets account for a relatively small portion of overall farm revenue compared to wholesale and other direct sales such as CSAs – roughly 17% according to the Northeast Organic Farming Association of Vermont Direct Markets Survey Report. Still, they remain an important outlet for producers to earn income, especially during the slower winter months. At the same time, the winter market helps maintain direct connections between farmers and customers year-round.
However, winter markets come with their unique challenges. One being that attendance and vendor participation is extremely weather dependent. On this particular Saturday, Soltys said, two farms were not able to attend because they could not get into their hoop houses to harvest crops due to heavy snow.
Many farmers in the area use hoop houses – structures designed to protect crops from harsh weather – to extend the growing season. This is how they are able to bring leafy greens such as kale and spinach to the winter market even when the ground outside the hoop houses is frozen and blanketed with snow.
Still, the variety of locally-grown produce is more limited in the winter. Autumn Cronqvist of Lewis Creek Farm, based in Starksboro, says the offerings look different during the coldest months of the year, but they still have hearty options. “We don’t have as much variety,” Cronqvist said, “but it’s still good food. It’s cozy food for making soups and stews.”
For farms like Lewis Creek, the extended farmers market season provides a financial boost during the slower season, but the benefits go beyond income. “Really, it’s about being present and being around the community,” Cronqvist said.
The outdoor Burlington farmers market will return on May 9 and will run Saturdays through Oct. 31 at 345 Pine Street.